New York Fashion Week: Racism on the Runway

This past February was New York Fashion Week and designers showcased their new Fall 2020 fashions. 

Trends have seemed to stay steady within the realms of the 90s, with many examples of modern grunge including oversized ponchos and edgy chains as accessories. 

The spectrum was either equestrian chic, with ladylike silhouettes and suits, specifically blazers. Brock Collection and Zimmermann really stepped up the game with the earth tone florals and plaid patterns.

But on a more serious note, another addition to the week was a show done by Fashion Institute of Technology’s designer Junkai Huang. Huang debuted a collection that included “monkey ears” and giant red, prosthetic lips. 

Instagram fashion critic Diet Prada called out the designer and FIT for showing the collection entirely, attaching pictures for their 1.7 million followers to decide their own opinion. 

“It shouldn’t be down to the models to have to refuse wearing blatantly racist accessories on the runway, especially not in a show thrown by an institution like @fitnyc (FIT).” 

In an alumni show celebrating their 75th anniversary, MFA graduate Junkai Huang showed a collection that was meant to highlight the “ugly features of the body”. 

The choice of exaggerated bright red fake lips and “monkey ears”, as well as the school’s response, are leaving us shaking our heads,” explains Diet Prada writer.

“Nearing a breakdown, African-American model Amy Lefevre spoke up about the accessories but was told by staff it was ‘ok to be uncomfortable for only 45 seconds.’ It’s one thing when it’s a pair of tricky heels, but quite another when you’re made up to look like racist caricatures from the not-so-distant past.”

“I was literally shaking. I could not control my emotions. My whole body was shaking. I have never felt like that in my life,” she said. 

“People of color are struggling too much in 2020 for the promoters not to have vetted and cleared accessories for the shows” Lefevre told the New York Post. 

Lefevre did however walk the runaway for the FIT fashion event without the wearing the ears or the bright red synthetic lips, which came part of a sex toy. 

She reportedly stormed out of the event immediately after her walk was done.The Post reported that numerous people behind the scenes also spoke up about the accessories and how they resembled racist caricatures. 

In a statement posted to the school’s website, FIT President Dr. Joyce F. Brown said that the collection’s intent was not to “make a statement about race” but that the school is “actively investigating” what happened.

Brown made a statement to the NY Post, explaining his stance on Huang’s show and “granting the students freedom to craft their own personal and unique artistic perspectives as designers, to be even what some would consider to be provocative.” 

He did say there would be further investigation.

In February of 2019, Gucci took heat for a “black face sweater” that consisted of a Caucasian model wearing a black Gucci turtleneck with red lips, which the fashion line did withdraw from their line following the accusations. 

Celebrities like Spike Lee and 50 Cent publicly boycotted the brand. And, not even two weeks after the Gucci call out, Burberry made headlines on sending a hoodie with a noose like drawstring attached.  “When a model walking in the show reported that the noose left her “extremely triggered” — not just because of the suicide connotations, but also lynching — Burberry allegedly brushed it off with, ‘It’s fashion’” reported The NY Post.

“In a time when luxury brands are taking swift action by pulling offensive products and implementing diversity councils in response to similar scandals, it’s a shame to see a learning institution dragging their feet” explained in Diet Prada’s post. 

“Shouldn’t they be the ones broadening insights for the ones who will lead fashion in the future and not reinforcing the same aspects that have made the industry notoriously problematic?”